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November 30, 2009

New Trends – York Wallcoverings

Buying American made products really matters to consumers these days. That’s why York Wallcoverings stands above the rest. Since 1895, York Wallcoverings has been providing wallpaper from the same factory location in the historic and picturesque Susquehanna Valley of Pennsylvania. Today, York is the oldest and largest wallcovering manufacturer in the United States, creating residential and commercial wallcoverings that can be found worldwide in more than 40 countries.

The impressive line-up of designer brands insures styles to suit every decor. Soon to be released, York’s exclusive Walt Disney Signature line will be filled with clean style and sophistication with a sense of whimsical flair. Can you imagine wallpaper with Swarovski Crystal? You guessed it…and it’s York! Have you ever watched the highly acclaimed designer Candice Olson and wished your home looked like her makeovers? Wish no more, because York Wallcovering has the exclusive line of Candice Olson.  York also offers eco-friendly wallcovering inspired by nature and made with nature, like leaves, sand, grasses, glass beads and cork.

Below is the great line-up of York brands. Also,  check out their website…I guarantee you will never look at wallpaper the same way again!
http://www.yorkwall.com/index.html
Trends_GRNroom CandiceOlson walt_disney_signature_wallpaper

• Ronald Redding Designs
• Ashford House
• Antonina Vella
• The Carlisle Company
• Carey Lind Designs
• York Designer Series
• Anya Larkin
• Candice Olson
• Stacy Garcia
• Tommy Bahama Home
• York
• Laura Ashley
• York Contract
• Carey Lind Contract
• Design Works
• Studio Source
• RoomMates

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November 6, 2009

How to hang wallpaper…

Filed under: Installation of Wallpaper,Wallpaper — Tags: — Amy@EW @ 12:27 AM
Wallpaper can make a tremendous difference in the appearance of any room and if you learn to hang wallpaper the right way, you’ll be ready to transform your home. It is relatively easy to learn how to hang wallpaper but it takes patience and attention to detail, especially if you are hanging patterned wallpaper, which requires matching at the seams.Gather your materials and read through these instructions and the manufacturer’s guidelines before starting.
Difficulty: Average
Time Required: Varies, but plan on several days for a whole room
Here’s How:
  1. Prepare the walls
    If you’re hanging wallpaper on new drywall, prime the wall first with wallpaper primer to seal the drywall and help the paper adhere to the wall.Wash any dirt or dust from the old walls and sand smooth any chipped paint. Remove old wallpaper using wallpaper remover, a wide blade, and rags.

    Remove electrical outlet and light switch covers.

    Use a putty knife to apply spackle over holes or cracks. Allow the spackle to dry, then sand lightly until the surface is smooth.

  2. Pick a starting point.
    The first strip of wallpaper will line up with the last strip of wallpaper you hang and the pattern should match up at that place. You will want to start and finish wallpapering in a corner, near the curtains or behind a door so that the mismatch is less obvious. The focal point of the room should have the fewest seams.Measure out from your starting point and use a level to lightly draw a vertical straight edge on the wall. This line marks where the first strip of wallpaper should be placed.
  3. Cut the wallpaper
    Lay the first roll of paper, print side down, on the flat work surface. Confirm the top and bottom of the pattern. Measure, then cut the first wallpaper strip to the proper length, adding a few extra inches at the top and bottom. (This will be trimmed off later). Measure and cut the next several strips in order, paying attention to pattern match.There are four pattern types — random match, drop match, straight across match and free match.
  4. Activate the adhesive on pre-pasted paper.
    If the wallpaper is pre-pasted, loosely roll up the first cut strip of paper right side out and immerse it in room-temperature water in the water tray or bathtub. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for immersion time. Pull the strip out of the water, allowing the wallpaper to unroll slowly.
  5. Apply wallpaper paste.
    For un-pasted wallpaper, apply pre-mixed paste using a large pasting brush or paint roller, working from the middle to the ends. Be sure that all areas are covered with paste with no un-pasted spots. Gently fold the top of the sheet down to the middle so that the pasted sides touch. Next, fold the bottom edge up to the middle. This allows the paste to cure and keep it from drying out. Do not crease the wallpaper.
  6. Hang the wallpaper.
    Starting at the ceiling, carefully unfold the top half of first piece of the wallpaper and gently place the side edge of the strip along the measured line. Don’t forget to leave a few extra inches of paper at the top and bottom for trimming later.

    When the strip is in the right position, drop down the bottom half and gently smooth the paper against the wall with your hands, beginning at one edge and working your way across. Use a smoothing brush or damp sponge to smooth out any air bubbles. Use a seam roller to gently smooth down the edges of the wallpaper.

  7. Trim the excess paper.
    Use a wide-blade putty knife to hold down the top of the wallpaper strip at the ceiling. Use the utility knife or straight-edge razor to trim the excess wallpaper. Repeat at the bottom of the strip. Carefully clean any paste from the ceiling and baseboard.Wipe the strip of wallpaper with a clean, damp sponge to remove any paste and remaining air bubbles.
  8. Smooth the corners.
    At the corners, measure from the last full-width strip of wallpaper to the corner. Add 1 inch to that measurement and cut the next strip of wallpaper to that width. Activate or apply paste to the strip.

    Apply the wallpaper on the wall, making sure to smooth it totally into the corner for interior corners or around the corner for exterior corners.

    At the corner, make a small slit from the top of the strip to the wall to allow the strip to lay flat at the ceiling. Repeat on the bottom to allow the strip to lay flat at the floor. Trim off the top and bottom and clean the strip.

  9. Hang around the corner.
    Place the next strip of wallpaper on the wall so that it overlaps the extra 1 inch of paper from the previous piece.
  10. Repeat hanging the strips around the room.
    Continue hanging the next strips of wallpaper, taking care to match the pattern, trimming at the ceiling and floor, removing any creases or air bubbles, securing the seams, and cleaning the paste off the paper.
  11. Replace light switch and plug plates.
    If desired, cover the switch and plug plates with wallpaper, taking care to match the wallpaper pattern.
Tips:
  1. Don’t be in a hurry. Work slowly to avoid making mistakes.
  2. Have a large area to work in and don’t crowd yourself.
  3. Cover every area of the back of the wallpaper with paste. Any area left dry, even a small space, will bubble and not adhere to the wall.
  4. Smooth paper surfaces gently. Don’t put any pressure on the face of the wallpaper.
  5. Carefully clean off the surface of the wallpaper before the paste dries.
What You Need:
  • Wallpaper and Paste
  • Large Flat Work Surface
  • Tape Measure and Level
  • Ladder
  • Drop Cloth
  • Sandpaper, Spackle, Putty Knife
  • Bucket, Water, Water Tray, Sponges, Rags
  • Utility Knife or Straight Edge Razor
  • Smoothing Brush
  • Seam Roller
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Have you ever heard of Wallies or Roommates?

Filed under: Decorating — Tags: , , — Amy@EW @ 12:08 AM

Wallies or Roommate peel and stick decals are a great alternative if you aren’t able to wallpaper or you tend to change your decor often. They are applied to painted walls, just peel and stick. They are super simple to use and affordable, with kits usually priced around $10.99. I personally have used them in a bathroom and they stay put until you need to remove them. They will not leave a residue and they have a multitude of designs. These are definitely not your Grandmother’s decals! Call us toll-free 1-877-229-9427 for more information.

roommates reddamask coffeetime

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November 5, 2009

New Wallpaper Trends…

Since Oprah announced on her television show that “wallpaper is back” and Time Magazine called wallpaper “hip” and the “latest passion” of interior designers, the plain painted wall seems a bit boring.

If you haven’t given your walls much thought since last agonizing over paint chips, now is the time to consider today’s new wallpaper and wall decor products.

It’s like switching from traditional to high-definition TV, You won’t see walls the same way ever again. Wallpaper’s sharper image has everything to do with advanced technology incorporated into striking designs to suit the way we live today.

Consider this Thibaut damask in blue…

thibautdamask

or this dramatic scrolling ironwork pattern in demure gray from the book, Shadowplay Collection by Seabrook Wallcoverings.

ss_Shadowplay1B

Regal Floral from the book, Expressions Collection by Albert Van Luit & Co.

vanluit

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Remove old wallpaper with ease…

It’s easy to remove wallpaper if you follow a few simple steps and use products designed to break down wallpaper glue and release the paper from the wall. Perforate the wallpaper.

1. Scoring. The key to easy wallpaper removal is to loosen the glue underneath. Do this by perforating the surface with a wallpaper scoring tool like the PaperTiger® Scoring Tool or the Wallwik©Scoring Tool.

These patented tools perforate the wallpaper without damaging the wall to allow wallpaper stripper to penetrate through the paper. Just use light pressure and perforate the entire wallpapered surface. The more holes you make, the faster and easier the paper will come off. Scoring is not necessary with uncoated papers.

3. Apply Stripper. After scoring the wallcovering, apply a wallpaper stripper such as Zinsser’s DIF® or E-Z GEL® by Golden Harvest. Several brands and types are available to liquefy and break down the paste behind the wallcovering. As the stripper wets out and liquefies the adhesive, the stripper breaks down the paste’s chemical structure and destroys its adhesive strength. Strippers usually come in concentrate that is mixed with warm water and applied with a sponge, paint roller or garden sprayer. Or try a non-drip gel; it does not dry out and clings to the wall leaving no mess. Apply the stripper starting at the top and working your way down, using a sprayer, sponge or roller like the WALWorks™Adhesive & Stripper Roller. DIF®needs to soak for 15 to 20 minutes, then the wallpaper will be ready to be removed. The backing paper that may remain with peelable or strippable wallcovering is also removed in this manner.

3. Scrape Off the Paper. The loosened paper may come off in sheets or large sections with little or no scraping. Where it doesn’t, scraping may be required. Use a wallpaper scraper specially designed to glide along the wall at an optimum angle to scrape without gouging the wet wallboard beneath such as Paper Scraper™ Wallpaper Remover and Wall Scraper.   Putty knives and razor-edged scrapers, even when used by a professional, can damage the wallboard. Rinse the walls well to remove all excess adhesive before starting to redecorate.

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Fabric term, Wyzenbeek?

Filed under: Fabric — Tags: , , , , — Amy@EW @ 11:17 PM

Many years ago, I had a customer call to confirm her cutting for approval. All was well with the cutting, but she had a question. “I love the fabric, I’m ready to approve it, but I have a question, what does it mean when it says 15,000 Wyzenbeek?” I just knew that it had to be rubs, or the durability count. Honestly, I just had to find out for sure before I gave her the straight scoop. Sure enough, Wyzenbeek is the machine used to rub the material until it erodes.  It’s called the Wyzenbeek (Why-zen-beck) test. So now you know!

Many upholstery fabrics have an average count of 15,000 to 20,000 Wyzenbeek double rubs. So when choosing a fabric, look at the label or ask about the Wyzenbeek count. The higher the number, the more durable the fabric.

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Installation over existing wallpaper.

New wallpaper can be hung over existing wallcovering if it is adhering uniformly and is free of dirt, dust and grime.
Gently clean the existing wallpaper with a damp rag. Fill in and sand any cracks or holes with a fast drying compound filler. Paint the entire surface with a universal primer. To help conceal any visible seam separations, the primer can be tinted to closely match the background color of the new wallcovering. The pigmentation will hide background colors and patterns that may show through.
NOTE: If the old wallcovering is printed with metallic inks (gold, bronze, etc.) an application of shellac-based primed is required prior to application of a wallcovering primer. The shellac-based primer will seal the inks so that they will not bleed through.

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Installing wallpaper over previously painted walls.

Filed under: Installation of Wallpaper — Tags: — Amy@EW @ 10:59 PM

Start by checking for good paint adhesion and moisture sensitivity. This is important because if the paint on the surface is chalking or flaking the wallcovering will have a poor base and probably will not adhere well.
There are four tests that can be incorporated into surface preparation:
1. The Rub Test: Use a soft cloth dampened with warm water to vigorously rub over the painted surface for 10-15 seconds. If any of the paint transfers to the cloth it means that the paint is water sensitive and will more than likely be adversely affected by the adhesive’s surface tension created in the drying process. If the paint transfers totally to the cloth an adhesion failure will definitely result. In this case it will be necessary to completely remove the paint.

2. The Sponge Test: Tape a soft, moistened sponge to the wall for about 20 minutes. Remove the sponge and wipe the paint film with your fingertips. If the paint covers your fingers, removal of the paint is indicated.
3. The Bond Strength Test: Use a razor blade to cut an X in the paint surface (not into the wall or substrate, just the paint). Put a piece of masking tape on the surface, if the paint releases onto the back of the tape, it will not support the installation of wallcovering.

4. Aluminum Foil Test for Moisture: Using duct tape, tape a piece of aluminum foil about one foot square to the wall. Leave the foil attached to the wall for approximately 1 week. Upon removal, if moisture is present on the back of the foil, then the source of moisture is behind the wall. If moisture has condensed on the outside of the foil then the room is in need of ventilation. If the wall surface is sound, begin by washing the surface using warm water and ammonia or detergent-this removes grease and dirt. Washing also helps to dull gloss or semi-gloss finishes. Spots or stains that do not wash off should be primed with a stain killer, such as BIN by Zinsser to prevent possible bleed-through. Fill any holes and cracks with spackle, plaster, wood filler or patching compound, depending on the surface. When the patch is dry, sand smooth and seal if necessary.

TIP- Use a paste especially made for high humidity areas like kitchens and baths.  One to try: SureGrip ® 132 Kitchen & Bath Wallcovering Adhesive . It prevents curling edges, eliminates seam problems and inhibits mildew growth. Use on unpasted & pre-pasted wallpaper.

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Window treatment/decorating tips

Privacy Issues

Lace/sheer fabric should not be used alone where privacy is a must.  Fortunately, lace/sheer fabrics can be installed over shades and blinds and look terrific.

Sun and Ultra-Violet Concerns:

Drapery curtains softly filter light but not the harmful ultra-violet rays that can damage fine furnishings.  This includes furniture, both wood and upholstered, floors and rugs, as well as the art on your walls.  In most instances, this is not a problem.  However, wherever the light bothers you for a period of time daily, and for most of the year, this could be a potential problem.  There are many possible solutions including windows with built-in protection, products that can be applied to your windows, and protective window treatments such as fabric sheers, shades or blinds.  Some fabric has an UV protective additive. This will help the curtains last longer, but will not protect any furnishings.

Fabric Content:

Drapery curtains are usually made from either polyester or cotton with some polyester added.  There are very few items made today that are totally cotton.  The term “polyester” has had a “bad” reputation, remembering the stiff polyesters of the past.  However today’s polyesters have come a long way.  They are soft, very easy to clean, and very durable.  (Not to mention – good-looking!) Polyesters can even be made to have the look and feel of fine leather.

As with any fiber, there are varying grades and types of polyester. You can still find the less costly drapery fabric and other products that have that yucky feel.  Some drapery fabrics are “memory” polyesters that will retain their “drape” after washing.

Most cotton-content drapery fabric is either cotton or cotton-rich made  You will be hard-pressed to actually find or feel the polyester fibers in some drapery fabrics.  The polyester adds durability and aids in shape retention.  Fabric Drapery Curtain stretchers have been regulated to the antique collectors! (For those of you too young to remember, curtains were washed and mounted on stretchers to dry. The edges of the curtains were slipped over tiny pins, top, bottom and sides and the rack was adjusted to hold the curtain taunt to keep its shape as it dried.)

QuickTerms Guide:

The Valance is a short top treatment. It can be used alone or with tiers or over panels. Use as many as you need for wide windows. Each piece fits windows generally 27″ to 48″ wide. Some Valances are shaped like short swags.

Tiers are used on the bottom half of the window, if desired. The 24″ Tier can also be used as a longer top treatment. Each tier generally fits a window 27″ to 48″ wide. Tiers are generally one piece but can be made into two.

The Swag Pair is a top treatment for a single window. There is a left and right piece. One swag pair fits windows 27″ to 58″ wide. The valance/insert or festoon can be inserted between the swag pair for wider windows or a fuller look. There are One Piece Swags which have to used in multiples for wider windows. Swags can be combined with tiers or panels.

To appreciate the full beauty of Fabric Panels, use one for each window 27″ to 48″ wide. They can be used alone or with top fabric treatments. You can hang them to the sill, below the sill, to the floor, or puddled on the floor. If you would like to tie them back, you will need 2 panels and tie backs.

Bay Windows:

If your bay has the narrow windows on the ends with a wider window in the center, the swag pair is a good choice. The left piece goes in the left bay and the right piece in the right bay. The valance/insert or festoon goes in the center. This keeps the fullness pretty even.

Style & Design:

Patterns are not written in stone and most patterns will adapt to almost any style category. Much depends on your furnishings and what you wish to highlight and decorate with. Be adventourous.

Many fabric patterns will do well in any country, traditional, comtemporary or Victorian setting. Long curtain panels lend towards a more formal setting, while sill length is more casual. Lace curtains belong in the Arts & Crafts style, or even Art Deco.Laces are exceptional in designs, they suit their purpose, and serve you well for many years.

Window Type:

Consider how your window opens and make sure that your treatment won’t interfere with how your window functions. For example, vertical shades may not be the best choice for a window that opens horizontally.

Curtain Info:

Curtains are typically lightweight, unlined, and suspended from a rod by simple tabs, rings, or a rod-pocket casing. Most can be drawn back by hand to create a simple, casual-looking window treatment.

Basic curtain panels are easy to make and install. They may cover the full length of the window or reach from ceiling to floor. Lining the panels and adding decorative accessories and top treatments can make curtains look as elegant as any drapery panel.

Cafe curtains cover only the lower portion of the window, allowing light and views through the top half of the window.

Panels shirred on rods at both the top and bottom are somewhat stationary and are good solutions for swinging doors and for casement windows that swing in.

Drapery Info:

Normally lined, pleated, and floor-length, drapery panels often attach by hooks to a traverse rod. A cord mechanism that hangs behind either the left or right panel draws both of the panels open and closed.

Because of the way a traverse rod works, drapery panels don’t always retract as compactly as curtain panels do, so if a window has minimal wall space around it, you may want to consider curtains or another type of treatment.

Before you purchase draperies, check their stackback, the technical term for the width of a window treatment when fully retracted. Very wide windows require more fabric, resulting in a wider stackback. In this case you’ll need to increase the length of the traverse rod to keep the stacked fabric from covering the window glass when the drapes are fully open.

Because draperies are typically pleated and more tailored in appearance, they generally lend a more traditional look to a decorating scheme. However, newer pleating styles can offer a more updated and casual look for contemporary interiors. Look for fan pleats attached to simple rods with clips and rings.

Fabric selections can dress a drapery panel either up or down. Velvet, damask, and silk generally require a more traditional or formal room, while linen and cotton fabrics offer a more casual look.

Combination Treatments:

Outfitting your windows has never been easier. Whether you choose treatments that are custom- or ready-made, or some of each, you can combine practical options, such as shades and blinds, with attractive top treatments or side panels to create a personal look.

Combination treatments can also give you more freedom to manipulate the perceived size and shape of your windows. An inside-mount shade, for example, emphasizes the actual size of the window. Mounted outside the frame, the same treatment can make a window appear larger.

Pinch Pleats:

Traditional pinch pleats take three folds of fabric sewn together for a pleat that fans out on the top and bottom. This drape gets extra interest from a sewn-in valance header with tassel fringe.

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General categories of color.

Filed under: Decorating — Tags: , , , , — Amy@EW @ 10:52 PM

Colors fall into three general categories:

a) Warm
b) Cool
c) Neutral

The way we mix those colors along with attention to value, can enhance the use of color in design and communicate explicit messages.

a):  Warm colors in design convey excitement and energy:  red, orange, and yellow.

b)  Cool colors are calming and relaxing:  blue, green, and violet.

c)  Neutral colors are unifying and help us focus better:  white, black, and gray.

Different spaces within a home or office may need different colors depending on the purpose of the space.  Design colors in the office can be essential to the image and mood that is created thus helping productivity and enriching aesthetics.

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