Home | Quote | Shopping | Blog | Returns | Manufacturers List | Wallpaper Calculator | Lowest Price
Commitment | Ordering Policy | Shipping Policy | Privacy Policy | In The News | About Us

June 10, 2010

Drywall Damage

Filed under: Installation of Wallpaper,Wallpaper — Tags: , , , — Garett@EW @ 2:56 PM

Drywall Damage

Most drywall damage occurs
when wallcovering is dry-stripped from the all or when mirrors andDrywall Damage paneling glued directly to bare drywall are pulled away, taking the face
paper with them.  The brown backing paper that remains is highly
absorbent and will bubble and blister if water-base paint, joint
compound or spackling are applied without first sealing it.
Follow the instructions below to repair damaged drywall using GARDZ® High Performance Sealer.


Prepare the Surface: Drywall Damage

Remove any wallcovering from the wall. (See: Remove
Existing Wallpaper
for more details). Next, remove any loose
facing paper by cutting back to sound areas with a razor knife or
sanding off using 80-grit sandpaper. To locate any invisible bubbles or
blisters, tap the surface of wall with your fingernail. If you hear a
flat, hollow sound the facing paper has separated and bubbled. Cut the
sound paper around the bubbled area with a razor knife and pull the
damaged paper off towards the cut for a clean, sound edge.

Appling GARDZ:

Make sure all
floor areas adjacent to walls are protected with drop cloths. Apply one
coat
Drywall Damage of

GARDZ
liberally with a brush, medium nap roller or sprayer to the entire wall.
When applying GARDZ with a roller, start from the bottom of the wall and
press gently as you move the roller upward to prevent the sealer – which
is very thin – from dripping onto the floor. GARDZ penetrates and seals
the paper, drying to a rock-hard moisture-resistant. When dry, GARDZ
should exhibit a uniform sheen. Excessively porous areas may have a dull
appearance and should be given another coat of GARDZ. If the facing
paper blisters again, cut out the blister and reapply product to exposed
paper. Allow at least three hours dry time.

Apply skim coat of spackling or
joint compound:
Drywall Damage

After GARDZ has completely dried, use a large (6” wide
or bigger) spackling knife to apply a thin layer of READY PATCH
Spackling & Patching Compound to create a
Drywall Damage smooth, uniform surface. Allow
to dry completely before sanding smooth.

Apply Final Coat of
GARDZ:
Drywall Damage

Remove all dust from the surface and seal skim-coated
areas with a final coat of GARDZ. When dry, apply your desired paint, wallcovering or texture finish to
complete your look. GARDZ
replaces the need for sealing the surface with an oil-based primer. It
seals damaged drywall facing paper to prevent bubbles andseals residual
wallpaper adhesive to prevent it from ruining topcoat finishes.
Wallcovering can be installed directly over GARDZ.

Bookmark and Share

June 9, 2010

How to get started wallpapering

CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAPER YOU WILL NEED

* Click Here to use the Wallpaper Calculator *

To figure your wall area in square feet, measure
the width of the walls and multiply by the height. Divide your total square
footage by 50 to determine the number of double rolls you will need for your
job. A standard roll of wallpaper covers approximately 56 square feet. The
suggested divider of 50 square feet to determine the number of rolls will allow for pattern waste in matching.

Example: A wall is 8′ high by 10’ long. 8’ X 10’ = 80’ sq.
feet.,

80’ divided by 50 = 1.6, 1.6 rounded up = 2 double rolls.

A general rule of thumb is you can cut three 8’ pieces

and one 6’ piece from one double roll.


WALLCOVERING ROLLAGE CALCULATOR

Wall Area

In Square Feet

Number of Double

Rolls Required

(11 Yard Bolts)

Number of Double

Rolls Required

(14 Yard Bolts)

50 1 1
60 2 1
100 3 2
120 3 2
150 4 3
180 4 3
200 5 4
240 6 4
250 6 5
280 7 5
300 7 5
320 8 6
350 8 6
360 9 6
400 9 7
420 10 7
450 10 8
480 11 8


PLANNING YOUR WALLPAPER LAYOUT

You’ve made an investment in your new wallcovering
and you deserve a professional finish! Preplanning will save you time and help
eliminate mistakes. Before preplanning your layout, keep in mind, your wallpaper
will EXPAND anywhere from 1/4″ to 1/2″ when wet or pasted. Test a piece and
allow for this when measuring.

How to pre-plan -As a general rule, start in the
most visable corner planning to meet in the least visible corner in your room
and measure the width of your paper around the room in both directions meeting
in your inconspicuous corner. Try to avoid small strips (2″ or smaller) in
corners or around windows, doors, cabinets, etc. If you are only doing one wall
(especially full length 8′ pieces like in a bedroom), start somewhere in the
middle, work your way to each corner, marking off off where your pieces will
fall as you go. Try to avoid any small strips in the corners.

When pre-planning – Be sure to take into account if
you have window sills that you will be wrapping. Plan your layout so there will
be sufficient paper to wrap inside your sills without having to strip in a
piece.

PREPARING and PRIMING WALLS

A LITTLE WALL PREPARATION GOES A LONG WAY TO INSURE EASE OF INSTALLATION AND
THE LONG LASTING BEAUTY OF YOUR NEW WALLCOVERINGS.

PrimingIts
always a good idea to prime your walls with a PRIMER RECOMMENDED ESPECIALLY FOR
PREPARING WALLS FOR WALLPAPER. This will promote adhesion, plus when you want to
remove your wallpaper, the job will be easier.

Hanging over Painted Wall – If hanging over
painted walls, priming is a must! In many cases, especially in new homes where
the paint has been applied with sprayers, the paint will let loose if it is not
primed first. Many kitchens and baths have been painted with glossy enamel
paints. Treat these with a wallpaper primer before installing your new paper.

Marking Wall – Use chalk or a pencil to mark your
wall; never use ink as it may bleed through your paper and stain.

HANGING OVER OLD WALLPAPER OR PANELING

Primin – If hanging over old wallpaper, priming is
a must. Use a primer that seals the paper to a hard, impermeable finish. Test
your old paper first by wetting the surface in a small test area. If it bubbles
easily, then you would be better off to remove it.

Hiding Old Wallpaper Seams - To hide old wallpaper seams so that they won’t show under
your new paper, after the wallpaper primer dries, lightly skim the old wallpaper
seams with joint compound. Let the compound dry, sand lightly, and coat the
skimmed areas with your wallpaper primer.

Hanging wallpaper over paneling - There are a number of liner papers on the market that
address this task. Almost any wallpaper center or paint store handles liners,
generally known as Wall Felt. Liners should always be pasted with a heavy duty
vinyl to vinyl adhesive or a “clay-based” adhesive to insure proper adhesion.
Generally, the liner must dry 24 to 48 hours before hanging over it with your
wallcovering. Before hanging your liner, be sure to check the paneling for loose
areas and secure these areas. Most liners recommend priming before hanging your
wallcovering. After you have primed the liner, you may want to float out joints
and any unlevel areas with sheetrock mud.

Liners – can be installed horizontally or vertically
(sometimes called railroading). Hanging the liner vertically is oftentimes
faster. Be sure to butt the seams, don’t overlap, then skim the join with
sheetrock mud.

Another alternative is a number of new wallcoverings that are designed to
especially address hanging over paneling. Check with your local decorating
center for information on these products.

LEVEL LINES

Using a plumb bob, chalk line – Remember always use a plumb line (a vertical level line)
out of a corner or on your first piece. Make a true vertical line with plumb
line and chalk a paper’s width away from your intended starting point. A plumb
line, chalk and plumb bob is included in every WalWiz Wallpapering Tool Kit.
Attach the line to the plumb bob. Fasten the string with a pin or small nail 2″
from the ceiling and rub the string with the colored chalk. Let the bob hang
above the floor. When the plumb bob stops swinging, hold it firmly against the
wall and snap the line leaving a chalk mark. Keep the plumb line and chalk
handy, because you’ll want to mark a true vertical around every corner or
starting a new wall.

Using a level – Make a true vertical line with a
level a paper’s width away from your intended starting point. Hold the level
vertical until the bubble is centered (within in two marks) and trace along the
level with a pencil. Line up the level with your previously drawn line and
repeat this process until you have reached at least 2″ from the floor.

Dealing with Out-of-Plumb Walls – Walls are never
perfect. Waves in sheetrock oftentimes will cause your patterns to pull off the
match. To camouflage this, match the pattern at eye level (rather than starting
at the top) and work up to the top, then down to the bottom of the wall.

My ceiling is out of plumb causing my pattern to run off at the ceiling line.
What Can I do? – Choosing a mini-print or plain paper is the easiest solution
for this problem. If you already have your paper, you may want to consider
hanging trim to a level line, caulking the gap at the ceiling.

An alternate solution is not easy, but can be accomplished with a good eye
and artful skill, depending on your pattern and where the paper is being
installed, i.e., a solid wall, over a kitchen cabinet, etc. The technique to
camouflage this type of problem often requires hanging the strip off level, but
careful placement makes it look to they eye like it is level.

A good example of this is often used when hanging plaids. This technique
works best when hanging smaller pieces but a more skilled craftsman will use
this on full length pieces too. Place the paper so that it looks level to the
eye with the ceiling, cabinet, etc. allowing it to overlap the previously
installed piece. Pay attention to how the overlapped paper lines up with the
pattern.

You may have to split the difference and adjust the paper somewhat. The idea
is that you can cheat the match enough to visually fool the eye. Once the paper
is in place, double cut the overlap.

Bookmark and Share

June 4, 2010

Creating With Color

Step 1: Finding a Color Scheme
Step 2: Choosing Color
Step 3: Factors that Influence the Use of Color
Step 4: Three Basic Elements to Color
Step 5: General Categories of Color

Step 1: Finding a Color Scheme

choosing color

If you feel helpless when it comes to picking and blending
colors, your answer could be as far away as your nearest
pillow.  Here is a quick way to create a color scheme for your
home with PICK – SEE -LMD .

PICK a Pattern: Starting with a pattern is the easiest
way to create a color palette for your decor. Choose a pattern
from any object you already have and love such as a pillow,
picture or piece of furniture. This will be your color palette !

SEE 3 Colors: Select a light, medium and
dark color from your pattern to be used as your foundation. You
may want to go to a hardware store and select color chips from
the paint department that match your pattern to carry with you
in case you come across a great find and need to know if it
matches.

LMD: Light, Medium and Dark – How you use
these colors can affect the overall appearance of your room.

a)
Light- Is the Background- this is usually easy
to achieve since most rentals are equipped with light to
off-white walls.

b)
Medium- Large furniture and windows - Since the
color of these objects will blend with the above lighter
selection, the medium furniture will ground the room and
give it a foundation.

c)
Darker- Accessories. Since your eye is drawn to
a darker more intense color you will be able to arrange you
accessories in a manner to guide the eye flowing through
your room.

Step 2:
Choosing Color

color pencils

  • Choosing the right
    colors is the first step to great looking room.  It is not so
    easy to select the right color of paint or wallpaper or the
    right carpet color to deliver the best desired results.  All too
    often, a color that looks ideal on a small paint sample erupts
    into a totally different color when you apply it to a wall.  A
    subdued light champagne yellow paint color turns into a
    screaming lemon yellow on the walls, an olive carpet winds up
    brownish in color, and a very light tint of any paint color
    turns out white.   Design colors in an office space must also be
    mindful of the mood they will convey.  Some studies have shown
    that colors can play a significant role in how we feel and the
    energy we have throughout the day.

    The practitioners of color therapy teach that people can have
    emotional and physical responses to color. For example, colors
    that are light or cool recede from the eye while dark or warm
    colors make a room feel less expansive. Our perceptions of size,
    weight, and temperature can also be influenced by color schemes.

    Sometimes called chromotherapy or chromodynamics, color
    therapy involves applying light and color in an effort to
    stabilize emotions, mind, spirit, or body. This balance is
    demonstrated by the positive and negative aspects related to
    each color meaning.

    Here are some of the
    commonly accepted mental and physical connotations of colors:

    Red

    Positive – passion, love, excitement, fire, strength,
    courage.

    Negative – anger, war, danger.

    Effects – increased respiration, blood pressure, appetite,
    and metabolism.

    Orange

    Positive – happiness, endurance,
    stimulation, enthusiasm, determination, attraction.

    Negative – heat.

    Effects – increased mental activity,
    appetite, and energy.

    Yellow

    Positive – cheerfulness, sunshine, energy,
    joy, intelligence,honor.

    Negative – deception, cowardice, caution.

    Effects – increased mental activity,
    awareness, and energy.

    Blue

    Positive – tranquility, loyalty, truth, depth,
    confidence, trust, sincerity, expertise, masculinity.

    Negative – depression, solemnity, coldness.

    Effects – increased calm and satisfaction.

    Green

    Positive – safety, nature, restfulness, growth,
    fertility, harmony, newness, security,money; power, wealth, dignity,royalty,                luxury, magic,
    wisdom, drama, mystery,ambition, creativity, femininity.

    Negative – greed, envy, jealousy, ignorance; snobbery, gloominess.

    Effects
    - improved healing and relaxation; increased creativity and intuition.

    White

    Positive – cleanliness, innocence, purity,
    kindness, light, simplicity.

    Negative – chilliness, sterility, emptiness.

    Effects – increased sense of sophistication and
    sanitation.

    Black

    Positive – formality, night, elegance, mystery, prestige,
    power.

    Negative – evil, death, fear, grief, depression.

    Effects – increased sense of sophistication and depth.

    Gray

    Positive – wisdom, atonement, intelligence, industry,
    futuristic.

    Negative – dreariness, storminess, boredom.

    Effects – increased sense of sophistication and calm.

  • Step 3:
    Factors that Influence the Use of Color

    color schemes
    Here are some factors influencing the use of color in space
    design:

    a) The time of day the area will be used the most.

    b) The type of light it will receive.

    c) The relation of colors surrounding it.

    d) The size of the area.

    e) The purpose of the space.

    Color and light go
    hand in hand in designing your room.  Each type of light bulb
    furnishes a different color accentuation.  Halogen is very close
    to the full spectrum of sunlight while incandescent lamps are on
    the warm, orange scale.  Fluorescent lamps are usually more blue
    (though some are called full-spectrum).  It is important to see
    your color choice in the lamps to be used.  Each will show the
    color in a different way.

    Step
    4:  Three Basic Elements to Color

    color elements
    Here are the three basic elements to color and interior design:

    a) Hue – the color itself – Blue, Red,
    Green, Yellow, etc.

    b) Value – the relative lightness or
    darkness of a color, whiteness or blackness.

    c) Intensity – the saturation or
    brightness of a color.

    The mixture of these design elements induces psychological
    and emotional reactions. Surrounding colors support various
    moods and activities, from resting and dreaming to socializing
    and working.  It’s best to consider carefully the requirements
    of the space to create a successful design.

    Step
    5:  General Categories
    of Color

    general color
    Colors fall into three general categories:

    a) Warm

    b) Cool

    c) Neutral

    The way we mix those colors along with attention to
    value, can enhance the use of color in design and
    communicate explicit messages.

    a):  Warm colors in design convey excitement and
    energy:  red, orange, and yellow.

    b)  Cool colors are calming and relaxing:  blue,
    green, and violet.

    c)  Neutral colors are unifying and help us
    focus better:  white, black, and gray.

    Different spaces within a home or office may need
    different colors depending on the purpose of the space.
    Design colors in the office can be essential to the
    image and mood that is created thus helping productivity
    and enriching aesthetics.

    Bookmark and Share

    June 2, 2010

    WALLPAPER BASICS

    Filed under: Fabric,Wallpaper — Tags: , , , — Garett@EW @ 2:17 PM

    BASIC WALLPAPER CATEGORIES

    The most popular types of wallpaper you will find are:

    * Vinyl Coated Paper – this wallpaper has a paper substrate on which the decorative surface has been sprayed or coated with an acrylic type vinyl or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). These wallpapers are classified as scrubbable and strippable, and are suitable in most any area. These papers are better resistant to grease and moisture than plain paper, and are good for bathrooms and kitchens.

    * Coated Fabric – this wallpaper has a fabric substrate coated with liquid vinyl or acrylic. The decorative layer is printed on this coating. This is generally considered more “breathable” wallpaper which makes it best for use in low moisture rooms, like living areas.

    * Paper Backed Vinyl/Solid Sheet Vinyl – this wallpaper has a paper (pulp) substrate laminated to a solid decorative surface. This type of wallpaper is very durable since the decorative surface is a solid sheet of vinyl. It is classified as scrubbable and peelable. Solid sheet vinyl can be used in most areas of the home since it resists moisture and is stain and grease resistant. However, this type of wallpaper will not withstand hard physical abuse (like mudrooms or storage areas).

    * Fabric Backed Vinyl – this wallpaper has a fabric substrate laminated to a solid vinyl decorative surface.

    * Paper – this type of wallpaper refers to wallpaper with a paper substrate/ground combination upon which the decorative layer is printed. True papers are not coated, but some may have a coating applied to seal in the inks. Because this type of wallpaper varies widely, check the label for attributes of the pattern/brand you want to purchase.

    Rediscover the charm, elegance and distinctive style that only comes with wallpaper from Eade’s Wallpaper & Fabric.

    The new wallpapers and borders out today use the most user-friendly wallcovering materials ever introduced. They are lightweight and easy to handle, yet sturdy enough so that they won’t expand, nor will the seams curl or separate. And removal is even easier than installation. No messy tools or chemicals. Just lift up a corner and each strip removes in one clean motion with no residue.

    Plus, great color and design make these wallpapers the perfect choice for innovative and unique walls in your home – with no ups and downs. Just beautifully simple results.

    INSTALLATION IS NOW A SIMPLE PROCESS

    The wallcoverings at Eade’s:

    • install cleaner, easier and faster

    • take about half the time to hang

    • are more stable – won’t expand when hanging for a seamless, professional look

    • available in prepasted (you can hang immediately after wetting – no booking) or paste the wall (simply position and smooth strip onto the wall with a gentle swipe)

    REMOVAL IS NOW VIRTUALLY EFFORTLESS

    And when it comes time to redecorate:

    • removal is even easier than hanging

    • 100% dry removable – no steamers or chemicals necessary

    • like peeling a banana, the average 8′x10′ room can be stripped in about 15 minutes

    • will not damage walls

    • leaves no residue on walls

    • walls can be repapered immediately without additional preparation

    AND NOTHING CHANGES THE CHARACTER OF A ROOM QUITE LIKE NEW WALLPAPER

    Today’s new wallpapers and borders make decorating and redecorating easier than ever. And they’re environmentally friendly, vinyl free and inhibit the growth of mold and mildew.

    Bookmark and Share

    WALLPAPER DEFINITIONS

    Filed under: Wallpaper — Tags: , , — Garett@EW @ 2:15 PM

    Listing of the most important or common characteristics and definitions for wallpaper:

    * Scrubbable means that the wallpaper can withstand scrubbing with a brush and a prescribed detergent solution. (An attribute that would be useful for wallpaper used in a kitchen, bath or laundry room, for example.) Washable means that the wallpaper can withstand occasional sponging with a prescribed detergent solution. (Great for living rooms, dining rooms, bedrooms.)

    * Stain Resistance is the ability to show no appreciable change after the removal of different types of stains such as grease, butter, coffee, etc. (Ideal for kitchens and baths.)

    * Abrasion Resistance is the ability to withstand rubbing, scraping or scrubbing. (A good attribute for wallpaper in a foyer or hallway.)

    * Colorfastness is the ability to resist change or loss of color caused by exposure to light. (Most of today’s wallpapers easily provide this attribute.)

    * Peelable means that the decorative surface and ground may be drypeeled from the wall, leaving a continuous layer of the substrate on the wall. This remaining substrate can be used as a liner for hanging new wallpaper. Or it may be removed easily by wetting with a wallpaper removing solution. Peelable paper is great if you love the look of wallpaper and plan on redecorating with it again and again.

    * Strippable means that the wallpaper can be drystripped from the wall leaving a minimum of paste or adhesive residue and without damage to the wall’s surface. This is the type to use if you are renting or leasing, as the paper can be easily removed when you leave. Prepasted means that the substrate of the wallpaper has already been treated with an adhesive that is activated by water.

    Whether a particular wallpaper is strippable, peelable, washable and so on is shown in the sample book or on the label of the wallpaper bolt.

    Accordion Folding- a technique of “booking” – usually used for long lengths of wallcovering, especially borders. After the paste is applied or the prepasted product is dipped in water, it is gently folded back and forth, paste to paste and then front to front – resembling an accordion. This allows the wallcovering to relax and it makes long strips easier to handle during installation.

    Batik- a fabric dying process developed in Indonesia where wax is applied to areas where dye is to be resisted. Some wallcovering designs simulate this effect.

    Block Printing- a printing technique where a design is carved into a wooden block. The raised area is coated with ink and prints the design on fabric or paper. It is similar to modern day “stamping”.

    Booking- it is necessary to book most wallcoverings after pasting unpasted product or wetting prepasted patterns. It allows the wallcovering to relax, which helps to prevent stretching and shrinking that can cause seams to show. To book a strip of wallcovering is to lay a pasted or a wet prepasted strip of wallcovering paste side up on a table or work surface. Fold the top half of the strip to the middle of the sheet, (paste to paste) and fold the bottom of the sheet to the middle (paste to paste) being careful not to crease the edges. Leave it to rest for the recommended amount of time (usually about 3 minutes). Then the strip is ready to hang.

    Border- a narrow band of wallcovering used for decorative purposes, usually at ceiling height. It is also often used at chair-rail height in place of or in addition to wood molding and also as detail around windows and doors.

    Chinoiserie- a French term denoting oriental or Chinese design influence.

    Choke- the background of a pattern also known as the “ground”.

    Colorways- the assortment of color options available for a specific pattern.

    Dado- the lower section of an interior wall, often below a chair-rail.

    Damask- a reversible fabric created by combining two weaves, twill and satin. In wallcovering, it is a style that simulates the fabric origin – it is usually monochromatic in color.

    Decoupage- the art of decorating surfaces by applying cutouts of wallpaper and coating with several layers of a clear finish such as varnish or lacquer.

    Drop Match- a drop match design does not run in a straight line across the wall. Instead, it appears to run diagonally. In a half-drop match, the design is staggered, so that only every other strip is identical at the ceiling line. It takes two strips of wallcovering to complete the pattern horizontally.

    Dye-lot- a set of numbers and /or letters given to a particular batch of wallcovering rolls printed at the same time. With every reprinting, a new dye-lot number (sometimes called the run number) is assigned. Slight color variances occur from print run to print run. It is important to ensure that all rolls of the same pattern have the same dye-lot number before beginning a job.

    Faux- a French word for “imitation”. In wallcovering, it usually applies to designs that imitate actual textures such as marble and wood.

    Fleur de lis- a stylized version of the iris flower. Used often in heraldry and French designs.

    Flexographic Printing- a machine printing process that utilizes rollers or cylinders with a flexible rubber-like surface that prints with the raised area, much like surface printing, but with much less ink. This means the ink dries quickly and allows the machine to run at high speed. The finished product has a very smooth finish with crisp detail and often resembles rotary screen printing.

    Gravure Printing- a machine printing process often used for wallcovering. The copper printing rollers are engraved with a design and then plated with chrome for hardness. The engraved or recessed areas of the rollers pick up the ink and deposit it on the wallcovering surface. There is a separate roller for each color, and the depth of the engraving determines the strength of the color. This means that each roller or cylinder is capable of printing tones of that color. Gravure machinery usually allows up to eight printing rollers/cylinders which print the wallcovering as it passes through the machine. The machinery runs at high speed and the ink is applied and then runs through a dryer before the next color is printed. This process allows for very fine detail and reproduction of images with photo quality.

    Ground- the background area of the wallcovering. Also called a “choke”.

    Hand Screen Printing- a printing process that uses flat screens. The printer uses a type of squeegee to manually force ink through the mesh onto the wallcovering. There is a different screen for each color in the design – all of the screens must be perfectly aligned for the application of each color so that the design comes together. Hand screen printing allows for a heavy coating of ink and a very rich appearance.

    Herringbone- a pattern made up of rows of parallel lines in which any two adjacent rows slope in opposite directions.

    Houndstooth- a usually small broken-check pattern that is inspired by the textile weaves of the same name.

    Jacquard- a fabric of intricate variegated weave or pattern including brocade, damask and tapestry. Jacquard wallcoverings simulate this effect.

    Match- wallcovering patterns are printed in repeats known as straight match, drop match, and random match. The “match” refers to the place where the design matches at the seams. When ordering wallcovering, be sure to take the pattern repeat and match into consideration. For instance, a large repeat with a straight match will require more wallcovering than a small repeat with a drop match. A random match has the least waste factor, because no allowances need to be made for matching the pattern.

    Moiré- a pattern with a wavy or watermarked appearance.

    Paisley- woven or printed with colorful curved abstract figures of Persian origin.

    Patina- an appearance or finish that has developed with age – often associated with the green film that forms on copper and bronze.

    Railroading- the horizontal application of wallcoverings. This is sometimes used to create an unusual or striking effect – a stripe hung horizontally is a good example.

    Repeat- the recurrence of the same motif or part of a motif in wallcovering and fabric designs.

    Resist Print- see “batik”

    Rotary Screen Printing- a mechanized version of hand screen printing. This process uses hollow screen-mesh cylinders and squeegee blades located inside the cylinders that force the ink onto the wallcovering as it travels through a printing press. There is a separate screen for each color. Rotary screen printing allows for a heavy application of ink and a rich look – very similar to hand screen prints but at a lower cost.

    Stria- a type of stripe, usually consisting of very fine, irregularly spaced parallel lines that are often monochromatic in color.

    Surface Printing- a mechanized form of block printing. Instead of using flat blocks, the design is engraved on rollers or cylinders. The raised area of the cylinder prints the ink, much like a rubber stamp. Most surface printing machines can print twelve colors, with each cylinder printing a different color. Surface printing is beautiful and very recognizable – the inks are thicker than most printing processes and often appear to be hand painted. This process adds an historical quality because it simulates the look of block printing – the oldest form of printing for wallcovering.

    Toile- the name comes from “Toile de Jouy” which is the fabric style that originated in the village of Jouy-en-Josas, near Paris. These designs typically resemble finely engraved copper etchings, use one color on a solid ground, and originally had a narrative element – such as a pastoral scene or motifs from classical mythology. Today, this technique can be used for any number of designs including floral trails, birds, or even palm trees.

    Trompe L’oeil- means to “fool the eye”. Wallcoverings that utilize this technique include designs that use light and shadow to convince you that you are seeing a three-dimensional object. Some wallpaper designs that have been successful are those that simulate draped fabric, trees, bookshelves, moiré silks, and murals and accents that feature a window or door with a view.

    Bookmark and Share

    March 29, 2010

    Decorating with Borders

    Filed under: Decorating,Installation of Wallpaper,Wallpaper — Tags: , , — Garett@EW @ 2:06 PM

    Borders can provide an extremely sophisticated and elegant look to your home. They have the unique ability to give your room that personal touch. The actual process of applying the borders has never been easier, as almost all borders sold today are prepasted and can be applied on painted walls or directly over coordinated wallpapers for a real Designer look. Here are the steps to follow for a beautifully bordered room.

    Step 1: Planning
    The first consideration is where the border will be applied. Will you use it along the ceiling, as a chair rail or to frame your doors and windows for an architectural effect? A rough sketch can help you visualize where a border would look best. Once you have determined where the border will be used its time to gather your paint, carpet, wallpaper and fabric samples to take your local dealer to select the perfect border.
    Step 2: How many spools of a border will I need?

    This next step is a simple one; take the sketch you made and place the measurements of your room accordingly. Most of the borders come packaged in 5 yard spools (15 feet) this is to accommodate the average wall length without a seam. To make your job go quicker and look more professional I suggest that you order a spool for each wall. If you are planning to install a border around the windows and doors, allow yourself at least 2 feet extra for each door and 4 feet extra for each window to allow for mitering the corners. It is always best to over estimate your requirements, any extra material can be used to decorate notebooks, lampshades, waste baskets, storage bins, dresser drawers, headboards, backs of book shelves, picture frames, hat boxes, toy boxes, did I mention everything?

    Step 3: What tools will I need?
    You will need just a few tools to do the job, some you may already have and those you don’t have, you may acquire from your wallpaper retailer. Here is a list of what you will need.

    1. An all-in-one step border prep such as PREPZ™ from Zinsser or Border-Ease® from Roman Decorating Products. These products make border hanging quick and easy by eliminating the need for sizing, special adhesives and messy water trays. Specifically formulated to work over both painted walls and vinyl wallpaper, PREPZ strengthens the paste on pre-pasted borders to enhance adhesive performance, preventing curling edges, corners and seams. It also provides extra “slip” so there’s more time to position and match patterns. PREPZ will not stain paint or wallpaper, like other adhesives can, and it makes removal easier at redecorating time. The convenient, patented sponge applicator allows you to simply roll PREPZ on the back of pre-pasted borders and hang. Plus, clean up is a snap with a sponge and water. In the event your border is unpasted, use will need to use a vinyl-over-vinyl adhesive.

    2. Tape measure, level or chalk line: Use a tape measure to determine length of border needed. If hanging the border mid wall, mark the height and use a level or chalk line to ensure horizontal placement and positioning is correct.
    3. Scissors, trimming knife, and a metal straight edge or a wide putty knife: The scissors are used for cutting borders to approximate length. After the border is in place use a trim knife with snap-off blades and the straight edge as a guide to make mitered corners and to trim excess at the corners. Try: ComfortGrip®Décor Shears and OLFA® Guaranteed Cutters. Use to cut borders and trim edges during application, the super sharp blades leave neat clean trims.

    4. Sponge and pails: The sponge is used to smooth out the border and remove excess paste. Two pails are needed; one for paste (if required) and one for clean water for rinsing the sponge. Be sure to change this water frequently.

    5. Pasting / Work table: Make sure you set up a large area for cutting, pasting and folding your wallpaper and borders – a large kitchen table or a long work table with a plastic cover will work.

    Step 4: Where to start?
    Now to start the finishing touch, after the walls are wallpapered or painted and properly prepared, you want to start the border in an inconspicuous spot. If installing your border as a chair rail start at one side of a door or window frame and end at the other side. If installing at the ceiling start at a corner over a doorway as you enter the room, or in the darkest corner so that any design mismatch is less obvious.
    Step 5: Let’s begin!
    Measure the first wall as determined by step 4, then measure and cut the border allowing 2 inches extra to allow for 1-inch overlap at each corner. Remember measure twice and cut once! Begin applying paste or activator and Book the border as you apply the adhesive. Booking means gently folding the border like an accordion, paste-to-paste. Be careful to not crease the border, as the creases will show. Once you have applied the adhesive, let the booked border sit for a few minutes,this allows the paper to relax making it easier to hang. Start hanging the strip allowing about a 2-inch overlap on the adjoining wall (see illustration below). Take a damp sponge and begin smoothing out any air bubbles or lumps as you go along. It’s best if you can have someone holding the border that is to be applied as you place the border in position.
    Step 6: Dealing with corners
    Your house is constantly shifting and vibrating. Because of this, it is recommended that you run your next strip directly into the corner overlapping the prior strip by 1 to 2 inches using vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive or quality white glue. Outside corners can simply be wrapped.
    Step 7: Dealing with SeamsPlanning ahead will help minimize seams but if you find that it cannot be avoided, the best method to handle seams is to overlap both ends of the border about 2 inches and carefully match up the pattern. Take a new blade and carefully cut through both pieces of the border where it overlaps using the straight edge as a guide. Then carefully peel away the extra material and you will be left with an almost invisible seam. If applying a wide border a seam roller is recommended to smooth out the seam, but be careful not to press too hard.
    Step 8: The chair rail

    As you can see in the illustration, chair rails are normally positioned about 1/3 of the distance from the floor to the ceiling. The general rule of thumb is 32 inches to the center of the border. Chair rails help give a cozier feeling to a room with high ceilings and in a child’s room they provide an interesting, eye-level visual stimulus.

    Step 9: Borders around windows and doors

    When installing a border around a window or door it’s customary to work from left to right much the same as we read. This has a more comfortable feel as the pattern runs up the left side, across the top, and down the right side of the frame. To properly install a border around a frame you simply overlap the two ends (see illustration). You then line up your straight edge with the inside corner and the outside corner formed by the overlapping border (this is normally a 45 degree angle), then using a new blade cut through both layers of the border and gently remove the excess material.

    Step 10: The best part!
    Sit back and admire your newly decorated room!
    Bookmark and Share

    March 19, 2010

    How to Protect and Clean Wallpaper

    Filed under: Installation of Wallpaper,Wallpaper — Tags: , , — Garett@EW @ 3:34 PM

    Things You’ll Need:

    • Liquid Dish Soap
    • Clean Rags
    • Sponges
    • Stain Removers
    • Wallpaper
    • Clean Rags
    • Sponges

    Step 1
    Note, when you buy the paper, what the store and the manufacturer recommend for both cleaning and protection.

    Step 2
    Use a sponge or rag to lightly apply soapy water to vinyl-coated paper.
    Step 3
    Apply a special cleaning gel or liquid to paper that is not already coated with some kind of protection (rare these days). If you don’t know what kind of paper you have, bring a sample to the store – even if you have to take a piece from some inconspicuous place on your wall. Or pick that same spot and experiment with different cleaners.
    Step 4
    Protect your wallpaper by applying a protective coating – also a liquid or gel that you can buy. Before you apply the coating, be sure the paper is clean and dry, or you might have to live with a disagreeable stain forever.
    Bookmark and Share

    How to repair wallpaper

    Filed under: Installation of Wallpaper,Wallpaper — Tags: , , , — Garett@EW @ 2:27 PM

    To re-paste wallpaper.

    1. Lift loose wallpaper carefully. It may be necessary to wet with water.
    2. Spread thin wallpaper paste underneath.
    3. Smooth down with a clean, damp cloth. Note: For newer plastic-coated papers, ask wallpaper store for correct paste.

    To remove a blister in wallpaper.

    1. Cut across blister with a very sharp razor blade, cut along a line in the pattern.
    2. Lift edges carefully and spread thin wallpaper paste underneath.
    3. Smooth down with a clean, damp cloth.

    To repair tears or holes.

    1. Tear a patch out of left over scrap.
    Torn, irregular edges show less than a smooth cut edge
    2. Spread thin wallpaper paste on the back.
    3. Position patch to match pattern and smooth down over hole.

    

    Bookmark and Share

    March 16, 2010

    Seabrook – January 2010

    Filed under: Decorating,Wallpaper — Tags: , , — Garett@EW @ 4:01 PM

    Type II, 54″ Wide, Non-Woven Backing, 18 Colorways

    Type II, 54″ Wide, Non-Woven Backing, 18 Colorways


    Type II, 54″ Wide, 20 oz per linear yard, Osnaburg Backing, 18 Colorways


    Type II, 54″ Wide, 20 oz per linear yard, Osnaburg Backing, 18 Colorways

    To see more colorways, visit www.seabrookcontract.com.

    Bookmark and Share

    Why No Job Is Really Too Small

    Filed under: Drapery/Window Treatments,Fabric,Wallpaper — Tags: , , , , , — Garett@EW @ 3:56 PM

    (By: Tim Clark)

    A small job means different things to different contractors and service professionals. Some claim any job under $100 is too small while others consider anything under $50,000 to be too small. Whatever the case may be for your business, you really shouldn’t discard the small job.

    Here are two reasons why:

    The small job lead may come to you and you choose not to do it. That could be a big mistake. Someone else is going to take that job and get the project done. If your competitor completes this tiny piece of work and does a great or even a good job, there’s a good chance the homeowner or business owner is going to call this person again for the next project. And they may also become a great cheerleader for your competitor and pass his or her name all around town. Wouldn’t it be better for your business to take on the project and then get future work and referrals from it?

    Another aspect to consider is this – what if the small project turns into a really big project? For example, a homeowner wants to replace a sink in the bathroom. It’s a pretty small job. But what if that sink replacement becomes more than that? Countertops and cabinets could also be upgraded, along with some new paint, and flooring. Before you know it, it’s a complete bathroom remodeling project.

    In a down economy, many people are not taking on the big projects. Things are slowly improving in certain areas. Many contractors and service professionals are gearing up to be able to handle the smaller job leads out there until the economy is rolling again. It would be a smart move to equip your business to handle these smaller projects, too. If you already are taking on the small jobs, then don’t forget to upsell your services to give clients the satisfaction they’re really looking for. It will have people calling you back and it will keep your business name on their lips as they talk to friends and family.

    Bookmark and Share
    Older Posts »

    Direct Pricing! No Hidden Fees! No Processing Fees! True Discounts!

    Eades Discount Wallpaper & Fabric Secure Shopping Eades Discount Wallpaper & Fabric Ships UPS World Wide
     

    Powered by WordPress